Gnocchi with morels, peas, sorrel oil, pine nuts, and miso broth

Good gnocchi is one of my favorite things. Here it’s seared, and that’s the most popular these days in America. I like it even more boiled and then tossed into a braise or soup or baked into a casserole-like thing and i’m sure i’ll have a recipe for that soon. It’s also traditionally vegan - like the recipe in Artusi (pictured) - however it’s commonly enriched with egg.

This dish got put up on vegansaurus last spring, but I’ve been working on perfecting the gnocchi itself so I’m posting it here with an new and improved recipe. Most importantly, 00 flour is essential. 00 denotes the finest-milled wheat flour available, although I’ve heard that the gluten content of 00 varies considerably. Every professional i know uses caputo brand which you can order online, although i just picked up what they had at Claudio’s and it worked well. I used to think that the structure of a good gnocchi came from the gluten bonds, but now it seems to me the flour is mainly there to add heft to the potato scaffolding. I mention this mainly to say that kneading should be very limited and that oil basically deflates this dough, making it useless. I’ve weighed out the cooked pureed potato and the flour, which also makes this recipe exponentially more reliable. Lastly, I’ve given up on freezing raw gnocchi - it still ends up fine; its just very different and i prefer the fresh.

serves four to six

Ingredients

Gnocchi:

  • 4 white fleshed or mealy potatoes
  • 175g 00 flour
  • ½ tsp. salt

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